Easy Shellac Finish
What is the most durable, natural finish that you can apply to your project? One could argue that it is the excrement created from the female Lac bug. The processing of what we will affectionately call “bug spit” results in shellac. My mission today is to show you how to easily apply a bug spit polish to your next project. Maybe by the end of this article you’ll decide that shellac will be your go-to finish of choice.
I should note up front that there are several ways to apply shellac. I’m going to explain a simply to apply method, but I implore you to make changes to the process when it fits your needs. For us to apply shellac we're going to need a couple of things. The main ingredient is obviously shellac. In the video above I’m using Zinssier’s Bulls Eye dewaxed shellac. You can buy this at just about any big box store and you will see a couple varieties. I am using the clear version, but you can get an Amber version if you would like. You can also purchase shellac in its pure form of dried flakes and then dissolve them yourself in denatured alcohol. Speaking of which, we will need some alcohol for our mixture. We also need a small cup, and a clean cotton rag. We're also going to wear gloves throughout this process because shellac can get a little bit sticky.
There are a couple things to know before we get started in applying are finish. One thing is that we are going to mix denatured alcohol with shellac and the ratio of that mixture is completely subjective. Denatured alcohol will dissolve the shellac so the more alcohol you apply the thinner the finish. You can apply shellac right out of the can and not diluted at all. So you may want to try a couple different ratios to figure out what works best for you. For me, I like a ratio of 2/3 shellac and 1/3 denatured alcohol.
Another thing of note is that shellac dries incredibly fast. And mixing it with denatured alcohol is going to cause it to dry even faster. This is good and bad. It means that we can apply multiple coats in one day and not have to wait days to finish our project. On the downside we need to work fairly quickly to ensure that we are applying a nice even coat on our project. Because it dries so quickly, I'm going to use a Dixie cup because I don't want to mix a large batch of it.
With our shellac mixed up it's time to apply it. I fold a cotton rag into a rectangle so that I can dip it into my cup. I don’t want any wrinkles in my rag. I apply even strokes across my project. You want to go with the grain. And I want my strokes to slightly overlap with the last row. After you start using shellac you’ll realize that as it dries it will get tacky. So you don't want to work this into the wood. Let it naturally soak in. Make sure that whenever you apply it that you don't have any runs or drips and you don't have any shellac puddled up, especially on the interior of a box. It will dry so quickly that it most likely will not level out like paint or a thicker varnish. If you do get runs, you'll have to sand that little portion away. It's not a big deal. It just saves you a little bit of work on the back end if we apply even strokes on the front end.
In between coats, I like to sand with 600 grit sandpaper. You will know that your previous coat is dry when you get a white power during sanding. If your sandpaper is gummed up, then your finish is still wet. I have found that this particular grit works for me, but you can try other gits like 400 grit. Some people like to use steel wool. After sanding, I vacuum the piece to remove all of the dust, and then I apply the second coat just like the first one. As you add coats, you’ll notice that the wood will get less thirsty. Meaning that it could get easier to have runs and drips so you want to be cautious when applying the shellac and don't put it on too heavy. It dries so quickly that you can apply multiple thin coats and not sacrifice time.
Just as the shellac dries on your project, it’s going to also dry in your rag. One way to save on rags is to dip your rag in some denatured alcohol between coats. Make sure that you ring it out completely and let it dry a few minutes before using it again. Otherwise the alcohol could affect the shellac you put on your project.
I like to apply 3-4 coats. You can keep applying as many as you’d like. With my last coat, I want to apply the thinnest, full coat possible. I want this coat to be a good looking, finish layer. My main goal is no drips and no streaks. Always go with the grain because we can’t sand it away without applying another coat.
Once our final coat is dry, we can some options. I like to lightly sand with 2000 grit. This removes any dust nibs and leaves a smooth surface. At this point, you can stop and call your project done. However, some people like to apply wax to the final surface. Wax can give your project a nice feeling when you touch it. I like to apply just a little bit of orange oil and bees wax. Just remember, once you wax you can’t go back so don’t apply wax until it’s your final coat.
Bonus Shellac Facts!
Shellac can be applied multiple ways. If you want to up your game, you can try a French polish. Instead of smooth, steady strokes, you will buff the shellac into the wood, using a little mineral oil as a lubricant. It’s a little difficult to do on small items, but you can get amazing results.
You can also spray shellac if you have a HVLP sprayer. Your big box store will likely carry spray cans of shellac. I don’t tend to use these. I find that the concentration is too heavy. A few coats build up too thick of a film for my taste. If you love it, then great!
Shellac is what is referred to as a universal binder. That means that we can use shellac between layers of other finishes. You can apply shellac and then lacquer. Theoretically, you could apply lacquer, then shellac, and then a poly. What’s cool about shellac is that there are different ways to use it so find the one that works best for you.
As we apply coats of shellac on top of one another we are not building up layers. Each subsequent coat is going to melt into the previous coat. What's good about this is that if we have a run or a drip we can sand that away and then apply more shellac on top to even things back out. Regardless of how long the shellac has dried and cured, it will still be dissoluble with alcohol. This is why you can use denatured alcohol to test if you have a shellac finish on a piece of furniture that you are going to restore. You can put a few drops of denatured alcohol on the piece and see if the finish becomes tacky. If it does then you have a shellac finish.
Since shellac comes from the lac bug, it’s natural. That doesn’t mean you should drink a can of it. You, however, have likely eaten shellac. Ever have a hard or glazed candy such as jelly beans or candy corn? That’s right, they usually are coated in shellac. Have you ever taken medicine? Shellac is sometimes used to coat pills. Because of this, shellac is a great finish to apply on kids’ items, such as nursery furniture and wooden toys.
I hope this information and the instructional video was educational and demonstrated that shellac is a versatile finish with a lot of upside. It’s safe, it’s natural, and you can completely finish your project in a few hours instead of a few days. If you like educational content that can also be fun, consider subscribing to my YouTube channel. My goal is make woodworking a fun experience that you can do with the whole family. You can also find my work on Instagram @genealogistwoodworker. And until we meet again, get in your shop and build something awesome.
